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reloading question
I was planning on buying one of those Lee custom reloading sets for .223. They cost abotu $25 bucks and are supposed to be pretty good for reloading in small amounts.
I have brass, and I understand that I need powder, bullets and primers. Can anyone tell me what exactly I should get. I am just looking to get a few things to mess around with in my spare time, so probably I just need some cheap stuff to start out with. Most likely I wont really have time to even get started for a while, but I wanted to grab some supplies now before the prices get any higher. Thanks. |
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Lee Loaders are great. I to shoot .223. These are neck sizing die sets and semi auto weapons may not like that. As far as components, get bullets that are the same weight that you have been buying. BL(c2) works good with the measuring spoon that comes with your kit. Small rifle primers are the only size primers needed. Get a Lee reloading book either 1st or 2nd edition and it will serve you well. The Lee books have a lot of answers for the newbs.
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Get one of those Lee books and all of these things will be covered. I agree more manuals are a good thing. Hodgen powder co. has good manuals too.
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I would say the bare minimum to reload rifle cartridges:
1A)Reloading Manual 1B)Single stage press 2) Proper shell holder (attaches to press ram to hold the case while performing operations) 3) Reloading Dies 4) Case lube 5) Scale to weigh powder charges 6) Vernier calipers to measure case lengths and overall cartridge lengths. 7) Powder 8) Primers 9) Bullets 11)Small funnel to transfer powder charges from scale pan to case. 12)Wilson case length guage (if rounds are to be used in semi-auto rifle to check resized cases to make sure they are sized properly). 13) Small screw driver to clean primer pockets(or tool made to do same) 14) Small knife to ream inside of case mouths to get rid of sharp edge (or tool made to do same) |
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I reload and years ago used a Lee Loader for 45 Colt. The bare minimum:
1) Lee Loader & online load data matching volume of included powder spoon 2) Wooden or plastic hammer 3) Lee case lube + a 3" wide flat sponge for convenient application 4) Ruler graduated in 1/32" (or 1mm) increments to check OAL 5) Powder 6) Bullets 7) Primers 8) Brass cases 9) Vinegar to clean cases after firing. The kits only neck size the cases, but this OK if the same firearm is always used. Doing more than 50 is kind of a pain. If you have the funds invest $200 in a real setup to do bulk. |
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Also what kind of powder and primers exactly do I need to get started? I want to buy those now first before they get more expensive. |
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I have used all these popular .223 powders: BLC-2, H335, Accurate 2230, 2460, 2015, Winchester 748...any one of these will suit you just fine. I would buy an 8# can once you find the powder you like.
I prefer Federal Standard Small Rifle primers. I have used these across the board in a number of calibers, with great success. They are softer (no problem with light firing pin hits), have more uniform flash...my most accurate bench rest loads use Federal match primers. My absolute favorite 223 brass is IMI (Israeli). Very uniform, military spec, machined (not punched) flash holes. Almost match-grade. Wideners used to have this brass. I doubt they can get any more, but I you find any, buy all of it. Other than that, you will either find commercial or military surplus (my preference). There is a company that sells PROCESSED military brass: cleaned, sized, trimmed, primer pocket reamed...ready to reload. Scharch out of Colorado: http://www.scharch.com/ |
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How about these primers
http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.c...ir=278|284|737 They are the only small rifle primers I can find in stock anywhere. |
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Excellent source, there Silver City....once fired, cleaned, trimmed and PRIMED for 144/1000.
THAT is a good deal ! |
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I like IMR 4895 powder....very versatile from .223 right on up thru most .30cal One pound ( 7000gr ) will load about 280 rounds of .223 at 25gr/rd |
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Have you looked here? http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...61%64%69%6E%67 |
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Igor,
Keep it simple but get decent equipment. A MAJOR plus would be to have a friend walk you through the process. I started with a single stage press, never did the Lee Loader thing. I think the Lee Loader would be OK for straight walled pistol cases but I don't know about .223 Rem / 5.56mm rifle ammo. Don't buy a large quantity of anything until you try it. If you're going to reload spent military brass then you will need another special tool to ream or swage the primer pockets to remove the primer crimp. You can get such a tool for a single stage reloading press. Try to get some commercial .223 brass to avoid this extra hassle when you first get started. I've used Winchester 748 powder with great success in 223, including a number of years shooting high power matches with a stock Colt HBAR. Inspect your cases once you've charged them with powder before you seat the bullets. Shine a flashlight into them and look, the powder levels should all be identical. Get a cheapo plastic "shell holder" to hold cases as you prep and load them, it keeps them from falling over and making a mess. No smoking or eating while reloading; wash your hands before smoking or eating after you've finished reloading. The most important thing is to pay attention. If you use a quality reloading manual, use the right primers (small rifle primers), use the right amount of powder (weigh it with a good scale), and use the right bullets, you should be fine. As far as seated length goes, if the round fits into an AR-15 magazine and isn't much shorter than the inside of the mag it is probably fine. Personally, I wouldn't buy Wolf anything. |
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Thanks for the tips. I might head over to our local gun shop and see if they have any primers or powder in stock to avoid those hazmat charges.
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I don't think the Lee Classic Cast single-stage press can be beat by any other press in terms of value. It runs about $80-85 right now and even handles .50 BMG and swaging (costs more for doing those.) It is USA made of cast iron and will last forever, unlike some other Lee Precision products. Shop around and you may find it on sale. Well worth full price, though. http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/classic.html
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What barrel twist do you have? That and your intended shooting distance will dictate your ideal bullet weights. As bullets weights increase, slower powders tend to be better.
For the guy who said nothing Wolf, the across the course guys have been flocking to Wolf small rifle magnum primers for their 600 yard loads. I've found that they also work very well with my 30BR if anyone knows what that is. |
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Newbee too, I bought one of those cheap little Lee Reloaders for my 30-06 and the results really really shook me up. Had a old unmarked coffee can of yard sale powder that looked like it would work[long tubes], bought some 165 grain Sierra Gameking boat tails and CCI large rifle primers then got to work with some cases I had around. Needed a "soft hammer" so I made one out a chunk of firewood. Needed a primer pocket cleaner so I made one out of a little screwdriver on the grinding wheel.
Not knowing the powder the first couple rounds got fired with a string on the trigger with the rifle tied to a tree. OK looking primers[not backed out] so I fired a couple groups; hitting way low so I pulled apart a commercial round and matched that charge[makeing my own little measure, about 5 grains more than the one in the kit] and repeated my safety measures. Settled down to fire some groups. Oh My God! My rifle that shot at best 1 1/2 inch groups with commercial ammo was now shooting 3/4 inch groups. Now what the heck am I going to do with all this other ammo? |
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I would be reloading 9mm, .223, .308, and maybe shotshells. Does this one do all that? |
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I am kind of leaning towards a Sabre Defense M4, but i also have a really nice Noveske N4 Light with a Daniel Defense rail. Both are 1:7. Most of my other uppers are 1:7 also, I have some LMTs and some BCM uppers that look pretty good. I know I have a couple of Bushmasters that are 1:9 but I am almost sure I am not going to keep them around. My .308 is an Enfield. not sure about the twist on that one. |
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Loading pistol ammo on a single-stage is tedious but I think it's better to start on a SS before moving up to a progressive press. If you want a progressive Hornady has a promotion where you get 1000 free bullets when you buy the Lock-N-Load AP press. I got one for under $400 but they're going fast now. |
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I like RCBS products...been using them for nearly 30 years. Gunshows are a good source for used reloading equipment.
https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/Mai...eId=webconnect |
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If you own a pistol or a rifle.....you should own a basic reloading kit and learn how to use it.....and get a few components.
Lee has their "anniversary kit"......has scales, priming tool, press, pretty much everything you need except for a set of dies and components...costs about $85.....dies are $25 - $40.....get a few hundred dollars in components....it has a very quick payback...is a fun hobby and covers your bases in SHTF. |
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You can burn smokless powder in the open on the ground.....piles of no more than a few pounds.....make a very nice fire...... |
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SC has the best suggestion yet. Go with a USED reloading single stage press. You won't be sorry and you WILL save a ton of money. I found this RCBS single stage on Ebay. Right now, with four days left, it's currently bid up to $41. SO, you might get one cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/RCBS-ROCKCHUCKER...3A1%7C294%3A50 And gun shows and gun shops are not a bad place to look for used equipment. At a gun shop, you have to ask if they have any used equipment. It won't be out on the shelf and they won't volunteer info. But if you explain you are poor (who amoung us isn't) and this is your first foray into reloading and you are not sure if this is for you or not, they MIGHT sell you that old used clunker sitting in a cardboard box in the back on the cheap. |
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Nitrocellulose & other goodies in smokeless powder should break down quite nicely by sunlight & local bacteria - that's why I broadcast it onto the garden. |
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I played with black powder when i was a kid.....
When I was a kid in summer between 7th and 8th grade I made 5 pounds of black powder from scratch......used bbq charcoal, and sulpher and salt peter from the local drug store.....had to tell the drugist it was making for a science project. Tried to make my first pipe bomb about 1.5" diam x 8" long.....I was thinking stick of dynamite size.....it turned out to be too strong of a pipe at that small diameter and it acted like a rocket motor putting out a 6 foot fountian of fire. The next try I upped the load to a full 4 pounds in a piece of pipe about 5.5" diam x about 9 in long.....threaded on both ends and used big heavy cast end caps. It made a serious explosing - the loudest I had ever heard to that point in time...(since then I've have had some dynamite experience that is louder).....it moved about 1/2 yard of dirt into a upward cone over 100+ feet in the air.....it darkend out the sun for an instant..... It was a Sunday morning on the far end of a new property development....the fire department came ...someone must of called them think it was probably a gas line explosing or something...I was long gone in the woods watching by the time they showed up ..... I was very careful at the time .....I remember I was puckered putting it together.....so i cleaned all the threads very well and placed cotton on top of the powder and lubed the threads when i assembled it..... I had to ride my bicycle 6 miles to the local gun shop to buy some cannon fuse. I was amazed they sold it to me ....I was just 13 at the time. Good thing i did not know about ANFO back when i was a kid......would have touched off a 5 gal pail of diesel fertilizer.... These skills may come in handy in the future.... |
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